Surfers at G101?

[CanyonCarver]

I was just wondering the other day if many of you enjoy surfing.

Before my son was born it was really my life. I was gone 5 hours about 5 days a week. These were the good times. I was never very good at it but I had my moments.

I recall my biggest and best ride was one stormy morning, here in SoCal, with my friend Bruce, my surf teacher. We went to Little Dume (near the more famous Point Dume). It's a access private beach but we had a friend who would let us in the gate with her resident key.
It was raining pretty heavily as I remember and the swell was pretty large. Big waves, rather far apart. They had traveled a long distance and had that "fat" look as they came upon you—not so threatening at first—until they hit the shallows and rose vertical. Ykes!

My friend caught a six-foot wave in front of me and I admired his style as he rode this sucker all the way to shore. I could only see his head from where I was, bobbing up and down the wave as he carved beautiful lines.

Then a wave came. It had my name on it. I paddled my Kennedy 9-foot board and raced down the face as it was still rather rounded. I made it to the bottom, getting up to turn right and went on riding with the most concentration I could muster. I didn't want to screw this one up, as I knew that my friend would be watching me. Bruce is the most fierce critic and he never lets me get away with anything... I had to get this one right...
This was one of the fastest rides I ever took. It felt like I was going 90 mph. (I add 10mph to the story every year)

After was seemed an eternity I peered behind me as I heard a strange echoing noise (a bit like a flanger effect) and found myself at the edge of a tube as big as I was!!! I wasn't technically in the tube, but I was close. I should have dragged my hand into the water to slow myself down, but didn't have the presence of mind or the balls to do it. Oh well...

The wave took me all the way to the shore where I miserably bailed like a newbie (I have never managed to dismount with grace like my friend does).

At any rate I was the king of the world on that day. And nothing was sweeter than watching Bruce gesticulate and do the victory dance for me, hooting and howling, yelling "it was awesome! Almost in the tube on your first overhead wave! Wish I had a camera!".

This was an epic day. Pounding rain, menacing black clouds and fridgid winter waters... This was one of the best days in my life.

I'm looking forward to reliving it the moment I die (they say your life passes in front of you in an instant.) I'd like to catch this wave and ride it into eternity...


My son will soon be 12 and wants to surf. This could be a new beginning for me too. I haven't surfed in several months so it's time to get wet again!

[haakon]

That seems lika a passion right there CC..!

And i hear'ya.... I've been windsurfing for about 15 years, and i have'nt been out in the waves in almost two years, due to many reasons... Geetar being one, hehe..

We're surfing the north-atlantic, above the arctic circle, so the season is relatively short, and the wetsuit is thick. (i use a 7mm fullbody with hood!)
I concider myself a fullblood viking, but damn it's cold sometimes......

But despite all the differences in theese sports, that "suction-feeling" towards the water when the season arrives, is the same.... I look over my wetsuit when the time comes, even though i know i'll be stuck on the sofa with the geetar on my stumach instead.... lol gettin old i guess......

Surfs up!

[CanyonCarver]

Originally Posted by haakon

That seems lika a passion right there CC..!

And i hear'ya.... I've been windsurfing for about 15 years, and i have'nt been out in the waves in almost two years, due to many reasons... Geetar being one, hehe..

We're surfing the north-atlantic, above the arctic circle, so the season is relatively short, and the wetsuit is thick. (i use a 7mm fullbody with hood!)
I concider myself a fullblood viking, but damn it's cold sometimes......

But despite all the differences in theese sports, that "suction-feeling" towards the water when the season arrives, is the same.... I look over my wetsuit when the time comes, even though i know i'll be stuck on the sofa with the geetar on my stumach instead.... lol gettin old i guess......

Surfs up!

7mm suit... Can you touch your face when it's on?
Man, windsurfing in the artic circle takes big balls. Hat's off to you, man!

[Joe King]

I grew up in Hawaii. I now live in Nevada...... I miss the ocean..... Bad.....

[CanyonCarver]

Originally Posted by Joe King

I grew up in Hawaii. I now live in Nevada...... I miss the ocean..... Bad.....

Man, I feel for you. My wife once said she wanted to move to Colorado to be closer to some of her family and I was dying inside at the idea.
We're staying here anyway...

[haakon]

Originally Posted by CanyonCarver

7mm suit... Can you touch your face when it's on?
Man, windsurfing in the artic circle takes big balls. Hat's off to you, man!

I can touch my face when the suit's on, but i can't feel it due to the cold..! And movement on land get's kinda mummie-like...hehe....) The water-temp where we surf in the middle of summer rises up to 6-8 dgr celsius, but i've been out in this wetsuit in water holding 1-2-dgr C, and that's where the bigballs come in... eeeh, or dissapear....

it's actually warm enough when you're in activity, the face and hands are the worst parts... (wind-chill)

[Supersonic]

good lord Joe.........from Hawaii to Nevada!!?? That's like leaving paradise for the moon! I've been all over Nevada and in opinion if it werent for Vegas....there wouldnt even be roads leading to Nevada!! lol

[CanyonCarver]

Originally Posted by haakon

I can touch my face when the suit's on, but i can't feel it due to the cold..! And movement on land get's kinda mummie-like...hehe....) The water-temp where we surf in the middle of summer rises up to 6-8 dgr celsius, but i've been out in this wetsuit in water holding 1-2-dgr C, and that's where the bigballs come in... eeeh, or dissapear....

it's actually warm enough when you're in activity, the face and hands are the worst parts... (wind-chill)

I remember surfing one winter without a hood and my head really hurt from the cold water. My hands were all red and itchy too. The things we do for surfing!

I REALLY couldn't find my weenie after that. The turtle had gone in its shell.

[wigrocks]

I tried surfing a couple of times thinking it would be a lot like skateboarding. I used to be a half-pipe, street tricks guy. The couple of times, I managed to get a ride going - IT WAS MAGIC!!! One of the greatest "Zen" kind of feelings I can remember. But at the same time I'm sort of a hyper type of personality, couldn't stand waiting for the good waves (Long Island is hit or miss). So took up snowboarding instead. My brother got me hooked before most people probably knew about it, somewhere in the late 80's early 90's I guess. That's my outdoor vice along with MTN biking.

[P.J.]

Cool story Mr. Carver!

The only surfing I have ever done is Body Surfing down in Florida. Not much talent required to do that. I always wanted to do some real surfing - but thats what I thought about Snowboarding. I can ski in the water and on the snow just like a pro. (Since age 10) But put that Snowboard under my feet and I look like a fool.

[CanyonCarver]

Originally Posted by GuitarPlayingPJ

Cool story Mr. Carver!

The only surfing I have ever done is Body Surfing down in Florida. Not much talent required to do that. I always wanted to do some real surfing - but thats what I thought about Snowboarding. I can ski in the water and on the snow just like a pro. (Since age 10) But put that Snowboard under my feet and I look like a fool.

Ah ah, I'm a fool on skis. It's the other way around for me. I gave up when I was 12.
Discovered snowboarding years later and found that I was quite comfortable on it from the get-go. I boarded on Saturday, one of the last days of this season is So-Cal.