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Discussion Starter #1
My jackson soloist i baught for €250 ... a bit rusty but it makes it look 'vintage'
it cant play yet but ill just solder all the wires to the volume pod and then it should work ...

parts missing :

those 3 thingys that lock the strings at the headstock
all those little black thingy's that lock the strings (those squares )
one "bout" (?) to screw a locker
the 2 single coils (i wont put in)

...thats about it ... ill edit if something changes
 

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David Gilmour's 2nd
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yeah get to work on that and let's hear it!
 

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thats an awesome looking guitar, i love fixer uppers.. i once bought a 80 dollar early 90s yamaha RGX620S at guitar center, it was all busted up, i fixed every issue it had, and sold it for 200 bux, and now the dude who bought it is super happy with it...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i think its a SL3 (japaneese)

but with the prices of a usa axe ...
the difference in price is too little in comparison with the quality (not talking korean here)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i've taken out the lockers so that i can put in the string without cutting out the ball end, ill post pics ASAP
 

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u wouldn't have to cut out the ball ends if u loaded the strings thru the tuners first... and it makes it nice and neat at the headstock, nothing to snag on
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i worked a little on the FR, instead of putting the lockers in, i modded it so that i dont need to cut the ball end ....

only need 1 piece and thats the screw, shouldn't be too hard.
and i ordered a locking nut from ebay, but its from the uk so i dont know how thats gonna work ....

the electronics dont see to work, ill post pics becaus you guys seem to know ur stuff


www.geocities.com/linkinparkske_13/floyd
 

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Elysian said:
u wouldn't have to cut out the ball ends if u loaded the strings thru the tuners first... and it makes it nice and neat at the headstock, nothing to snag on
BAD BAD BAD ADVICE... even though you cant see it strings are tapered over the length of the string. So even though it looks harmless.. its not recommended. and can cause tuning issues.... we have hammered this out countless times here with the same results........ cut the ball ends off like your supposed to or the manufacturer would say to load the strings backwards. It takes a whopping extra 3 minutes to do the job right.

And as far as using the balls instead of retainer blocks , it will trash the saddles and bust more strings than you can count. Spend the $$$ for the retainer blocks. and save alot of headaches down the road.
 

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vintage_brat said:
BAD BAD BAD ADVICE... even though you cant see it strings are tapered over the length of the string. So even though it looks harmless.. its not recommended. and can cause tuning issues.... we have hammered this out countless times here with the same results........ cut the ball ends off like your supposed to or the manufacturer would say to load the strings backwards. It takes a whopping extra 3 minutes to do the job right.

And as far as using the balls instead of retainer blocks , it will trash the saddles and bust more strings than you can count. Spend the $$$ for the retainer blocks. and save alot of headaches down the road.
i've been doing this for 8 years now, with no issues... i'm sorry u've had problems...
 

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Elysian said:
i've been doing this for 8 years now, with no issues... i'm sorry u've had problems...
I've been undoing this for others for the past 20 years... since its my profession and lively hood.... Short cuts are nice . and some may work. but I think your better off sticking to whats recommended... not a 3 minute time saver that causes problems in the end.
I'm sure you will learn this when you get to luthiers school in august as you mentioned in another post. Besides hes going to have one hell of a time locking plain ends with no clamp blocks in the saddles as hes mentioned.
 

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Napoleon Dynamite
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vintage_brat said:
I've been undoing this for others for the past 20 years... since its my profession and lively hood.... Short cuts are nice . and some may work. but I think your better off sticking to whats recommended... not a 3 minute time saver that causes problems in the end.
I'm sure you will learn this when you get to luthiers school in august as you mentioned in another post. Besides hes going to have one hell of a time locking plain ends with no clamp blocks in the saddles as hes mentioned.
Keith, tell them once. Why waste your breath, so to speak :lol:

Ignorance is bliss. If people don't take your good, free, advice then screw 'em.
 

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vintage_brat said:
I've been undoing this for others for the past 20 years... since its my profession and lively hood.... Short cuts are nice . and some may work. but I think your better off sticking to whats recommended... not a 3 minute time saver that causes problems in the end.
I'm sure you will learn this when you get to luthiers school in august as you mentioned in another post. Besides hes going to have one hell of a time locking plain ends with no clamp blocks in the saddles as hes mentioned.
sorry man, i've had various floyd style tremelos throughout the years, my favorite being the 2 ibanez edge's(origional edges) i've used, and there is only 1 tremelo i've ever experienced any tuning problems with, and it was a cheapo LoTRS II which came on a korean RGT42. put a edge in that RGT42, and it has been perfect ever since. and i've tried the other way too, with the same end results. but u know, i guess do what u want, i'll keep doing it how i do it;) and u know, i think i'll pull out my digital micrometer and test this theory that strings get thinner, its interesting to me, since this is the first i've ever heard of it...
 

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using a brand new set of GHS Boomer 10-60's
on a 10 guage string on both ends i got 0.010"
on a 13 guage string on both ends i got 0.012"
on a 17 guage string on both ends i got 0.017"
on a 35 guage string on both ends i got 0.0355"
on a 52 guage string on both ends i got 0.0525"
on a 13 guage string on both ends i got 0.060"


and just to give you the benefit of the doubt i am going to check a set of 10-60's that are currently on a guitar, to see if stretching might make the strings thinner on one end... but if that is the case then the strings would still stretch closest to the nut no matter which end u put in the tuners.

low and behold i got exact same readings on both ends of the strings while on guitar, which also happened to be the exact same readings i got on the strings not on the guitar...

maybe 20 years ago what you are saying was true, but from my testing i don't find any evidence of this.
and please, don't think i'm trying to start a flame war, i just wanted to find out for myself, and felt it best to post my evidence... no offence intended, i am certain you are very good at what you do
 

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vintage_brat said:
I've been undoing this for others for the past 20 years... since its my profession and lively hood.... Short cuts are nice . and some may work. but I think your better off sticking to whats recommended... not a 3 minute time saver that causes problems in the end.
I'm sure you will learn this when you get to luthiers school in august as you mentioned in another post. Besides hes going to have one hell of a time locking plain ends with no clamp blocks in the saddles as hes mentioned.

Seems like you like to Brag alot....i know Professional Musicians that do it the same way Ely does and they have no problems nor have i ever.....there really is no Difference considering its LOCKED down at the Nut.....im not trying to prove a point....im just telling you from Expierence.....
 

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Seems like I have the experience and know how to give the proper information on this.....If you dont mind sharing your credentials and experience I'd love to see it....
 
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